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Grading Your Collection

by Paul Richards

Numismatic grading is both the blessing and curse of coin collecting. Here's my approach, which, I believe, is somewhat standard.

First, if you are new to coin collecting, forget all this hoopla about coin grading. Simply buy coins you like and add them to you collection. Never buy a coin you don't like, even if it appears to be a terrific deal. Chances are you will get ripped off during so-called terrific deals. Never pay more than your gut tells you. Nevertheless, practice, practice, practice your grading skills.

When grading, I ask myself a series of six questions.

Question #1 -- does the coin have problems? Many numismatists (me included) feel that a problem coin cannot be graded. Cleaning, dipping, staining, scraping and so forth are 'problems.' Problems are inflicted on coins after the minting process is complete. Shysters clean coins. Skilled shysters clean coins so it is difficult to tell that they have been cleaned. If a coin looks funny, it probably is. If the coin looks too good to be true, it probably is.

Question #2 -- is the coin a proof coin? Proof coinage falls into a separate category from normal business strikes. Proof coins do not display mint luster (see next question); they do display mirrored surfaces.

Question #3 -- is the coin uncirculated? This is usually easy to answer. Those 'almost unc' pieces are the coins in question. A circulated piece shows definite wear. That is, it shows metal eroded away by circulation. An uncirculated piece (almost always) shows mint luster. Mint luster is not shiny-ness. Mint luster is a 'creamy-ness' (there are probably better words) that is evident when you look at a coin from different angles under a point source of light. Rock a coin back and forth under a good light and look for highlights emanating from the mint luster. Remember that mint luster comes from microscopic radial striations in the metal's surface. An uncirculated coin displays mint luster on all parts of the coin, especially the fields. Look for evidence of wear by checking the high points for luster. If it is there, the coin is an unc. If the high points do not reflect light like the rest of the coin, the coin is probably AU.

Question #4a -- how worn is a circulated piece? This is easy. There are many detailed grading guides on this subject. It is easy to tell the difference between, say, between a G4 and a VG8. Likewise, it is easy to tell the difference between an XF40 and an AU50. Just look at the grading guides. The Red Book (A Guidebook to United States Coins by R. S. Yeoman) is a good source. The ANA (American Numismatic Association) publishes an official grading guide. But watch out if your interest lies in early United States copper coins. A small subculture of Early American Copper collectors enjoy their own grading standards which are more strict than those of the ANA and other collectors in general.

Question #4b -- how badly marked is an uncirculated or proof piece? This becomes a little tricky. The grading guides attempt to help, but experience is the best teacher. An 'average' number of marks usually gets you an MS63. Look at 100 unc Morgan Dollars and you get to know what 'average' means. Look at 100 unc Mercs and you'll come up with an 'average' for them. To qualify for a '5' (that is, MS65), your coin better have darn few marks -- and no prominent ones, either. A small collection of small marks is better than a pristine coin with one big blemish. Grading uncs is much more an art than grading circs. Take the plunge and assign a grade. It's your grade that matters. Nobody else's!

The grading is over. After answering the previous four questions, you should have a number. Is your coin a G4, a VF20 or an MS65? You are done grading, but you are not done describing the coin.

A coin is not fully described until it has a grade and its attributes are fully articulated. 'Attributes' are different than 'varieties.' You can find 'varieties' in the Red Book (e.g., 'with arrows', 'VDB' and 'small motto' are varieties). You can find attributes in the answers to Questions #5 and #6 below.

Question #5 -- how are luster, strike and eye appeal? Three primary attributes are luster, strike and eye appeal. Exceptionally lustrous uncs deserve mention over normal luster. Uncs with exceptionally crisp strike also deserve special mention. Finally, exceptional eye appeal can be found on both uncs and circs. Eye appeal is difficult to define, but you know it when you see it.

Question #6 -- are there any other attributes? Attributes fall into 8 major categories. Here is a comprehensive list of attributes for numismatic coins. When you list them all out, they make your head spin!
Color & Toning Proof Superlative Die
red
red-brown
brown
white
full white
original color
dark color
light tone
pleasing tone
rainbow tone
unusual tone
dark fields
light devices
matte
cameo
deep cameo
ultra cameo
mirror
semi-prooflike
prooflike
deep mirror PL
ultra DMPL
proof only
frosted unc
premium quality
extra nice
pleasing look
appears undergraded
key date
semi-key
more info: URS
more info: R
repunched mm
repunched date
misplaced date
doubled die obv
doubled die rev
blundered die
clashed die
cracked die
cud
polished die
scratched die
gouged die
split die
early die state
mid die state
late die state
Strike Doctoring Physical Abuse Improper Care
off center
rotated die
clipped planchet
flawed planchet
filled die
strike doubling
out of collar
wrong planchet
wrong metal
unstruct planchet
partial collar
capped die
brockage
first brockage
struck thru wire
die protector
planchet flaw
flan flaw
gas bubbles
full steps
full split bands
full head
full bell lines
cleaned
light clean
cleaned&re-toned
artificially toned
whizzed
light whiz
heavy dip
light dip
polished coin
tooled/engraved
reprocessed
acid-raised date
rim ding
flattened edge
hairlines
small scratch
large scratch
obverse scratch
reverse scratch
scuffed
gouge/dig
icepick hole(s)
holed
plugged holechopmarks
bent/unbent
foreign material
solder
jewelry alteration
grafitti
uneven wear
coin counter marks
counterfeit
deceptive plating
porous
pitted
corroded
spots
stains
rusted
verdigris
delaminated
pvc damage
fire damamge
water damage
soil damage
cabinet friction
sliding rub
mount mark

Paul Richards is proprietor of an online coin shop known as Collector's Display Case. Paul has been collecting since 1957, dealing since 1993 and has published articles in Coins and Coinage magazines. As a 'day' job, Paul has over 30 years experience in radar engineering with a large aerospace company.

Collector's Display Case is a consignment site operated by Stat-Matics Rare Coin Company. Collector's Display Case provides unique auctions for one-of-a-kind items. These auctions are different than normal Internet auctions. There are no sustained bidding wars and no last-minute sniping. In a Buy-or-Bid auction, the seller specifies two prices, one high and one low. The moment an item appears for sale, it carries its highest price. After that, the computer adjusts the price slowly downward. The low price is equivalent to the 'reserve' or 'minimum bid' in a normal auction. A buyer who clicks the buy button pays whatever price is shown at the moment. Alternately, a buyer can click the bid button to place a bid on the item, hoping it will reach the lower bid price before someone else buys it. Give our Buy-or-Bid auction a try. They are more pleasant and less frustrating than standard Internet auctions. Know why? Because when you place a bid in a Collector's Display Case auction, the auction is adjusted so it ends sooner. This rewards your bid with less chance of someone sneaking in during the final minutes.
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